Stitches, threads, and torn flesh: Taytay, Rizal during the Semana Santa
Being a predominantly Roman Catholic country, Semana Santa (Holy Week) is religiously observed by the majority of the Filipino population during the Lenten season. Popular pilgrimage sites include the Black Nazarene in Quiapo, the city of San Fernando in Pampanga which feature the Penitensya, and the Moriones Festival in Marinduque.
The province of Rizal has always been a favorite destination of pilgrims and devotees during the Holy Week. One of the most visited churches in the Philippines during this season is the Antipolo Cathedral which houses the famed statue of the Nuestra Señora de la Paz y del Buen Viaje. This centuries-old Black Madonna was even mentioned in the 1887 novel Noli Me Tangere by the national hero and namesake of the province, Dr. José Rizal. Modern-day Marian worshippers may also head to the Regina Rosarii Institute for Contemplation in Asia (Regina RICA) located in Tanay which feature a 71-foot high statue of Our Lady on Top of the Hill. And for those simply looking to meditate in peace, the numerous mountains of Rizal provide a quiet retreat and a natural sanctuary for the soul.
Low-lying, high-flying
Although only an hour’s drive away from the nation’s capital, the low-lying municipality of Taytay is customarily bypassed by travelers and tourists in favor of the urbanized mountains of Antipolo and Tanay. Through the years however, it has steadily gained recognition as one of the Most Competitive Municipalities in the Country, ranking third in the index. It has also laid down the foundation of its plans to progress into cityhood.
Moreover, it has started to garner attention as a notable destination for devotees during the Holy Week, as the streets of Taytay bear witness to the vivid portrayals of the Passion, Death, and Resurrection of Jesus Christ starting from the epic narrative of the Lenten Pasyón until the Easter Sunday Salubong.
Pagdarakip, Paghahatol, at Amba
Pagdarakip (arrest, capture) portray the events of the Last Supper leading to the subsequent trial and tribulations that the Lord faced until His Death in the form of a stage play, commonly known as Senákulo in other parts of the country. The play is usually staged on the streets of Taytay on Tuesday night (Martes Santo) by various groups. Actors and actresses, both veterans and newcomers, are heavily involved in all aspects of the play including production, costume making, stage design, lights and sound system, and direction.
Being the Woodworks and Garments Capital of the Philippines, Taytay prides itself on fashioning detailed costumes and elaborate set pieces for the street play. Design and production is usually started several months before the actual event.
Paghahatol (judgment) dramatizes the condemnation of Christ by the Sanhedrin and trial before Pontius Pilate. Various groups and organizations go around Taytay in costume where locals and devotees may request for a “paghahatol” in exchange for a fee. The highlight of this performance is the whipping of Christ struggling under the weight of the wooden Cross as the soldiers and Sanhedrin priests narrate the details of His teachings and miracles. Far from being a public form of entertainment, the performance is often excruciating and bloody. Some devotees will even request to be given a role as part of their Panata. Devotees may choose to play their part as the Scourge or even Christ Himself in a macabre display of spiritual cleansing from the desire to inflict pain and the fortitude to accept physical suffering.
Actors will often switch roles for the duration of the day, as the role of Christ can take a heavy toll on a singular actor’s body. This is perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Paghahatol. It presents the conflicting perspectives of inflicting pain, receiving it in turn, and serving as a spectator to the grim ordeal.
Amba is the funeral procession of the Santo Entierro around the streets of Taytay attended by locals and outsiders towards the evening of Good Friday, also known as Apung Macalulu (Merciful Lord)in Pampanga. Similar to the Traslación of the Black Nazarene around Quiapo but with key differences, it nevertheless draws a considerable crowd ranging well into the thousands. Amba is the literal act of pulling the ropes attached to the carriage as it makes its way from St. John the Baptist Parish and back.
The Santo Entierro (Holy Burial) shows the figure of the dead Christ laying peacefully in a richly decorated funeral casket atop a carroza pulled by the namamasan (bearers). Adherents and devotees hold lighted candles and commonly wear white like the burial cloth wrapped around Christ’s body. Marchers walk barefoot throughout the entire procession which can last more than four hours. During this time, towels and handkerchiefs are thrown by the attendees and residents to the marshals riding along with the carroza, a manifestation of their strong belief in the Santo Entierro’s miraculous healing powers.
The carroza of the Santo Entierro is heralded by carriages of the Catholic saints and life-sized tableaux of the Fourteen Stations of the Cross. The last figure in the procession is that of the Mater Dolorosa (Our Lady of Sorrows) garbed in a flowing black dress. Various organizations and associations from all over the country also march with the procession while carrying gonfalons embroidered with their name, place of origin, and founding date. Masked penitents practicing the ritual of self-flagellation and mortification of the flesh walk at the end of the procession.
Back at St. John the Baptist Parish, the saints are then congregated at the stage overlooking the parish plaza. All parishioners, attendees, devotees, marchers, and visitors are advised to keep silent and refrain from clapping or cheering as the Santo Entierro arrives back at the plaza, and instead wave around their white towels as a sign of solemn respect. After the procession, local residents often invite visitors and guests to partake in communal meals in their homes.
A burning fire
On Black Saturday night, the parish holds a hushed ceremony in front of a burning pyre at the same plaza, just prior to the Easter Vigil Mass. The parish doors are closed and the lights are dimmed for the duration of the ceremony. The pyre symbolizes Christ as the Light of the World and the “burning away” of the sins of mankind in His presence. Parishioners and visitors are encouraged to recollect and seek atonement for the sins they have committed. A candle is then lighted at the burning pyre and is brought inside the parish through the front doors, signifying the start of the Easter Vigil Mass.
Easter Sunday in Taytay is typically celebrated with the Salubong just before dawn, depicting the reunion of Mother and Child after the Resurrection. The black veil of the Mater Dolorosa is cast away from the figure signifying the end of her lamentation. Easter Sunday Mass is typically celebrated in the morning followed by more festivities and celebrations.
Taytay is steadily positioning itself in becoming a choice destination not only for its garments but also for its festivities intertwined with its rich history. With a multitude of awards and accolades on its altar and a structured plan to progress into a city, Taytay is confidently being pulled by the namamasang Taytayeños in the right direction.
